Pandolfi Orsini "Montalfojo" Pergola Rosso '18

The beauty of Italian wine lies in its diversity. There is never a dull moment when it comes to discovering unique varieties from unheralded places. Several years back, a friend of mine, whom I refer to as the Mayor of the Marche, introduced me to the wines of the Pergola Rosso appellation. This is a tiny wine zone in the Marche dedicated to making red wine from the Aleatico grape. The villages of Pergola, Fratte Rosa, Frontone, Serra Sant’Abbondio, and San Lorenzo in Campo are included in the zone. There are only a handful of producers left making Pergola. And there are only about 1,200 acres of Aleatico left in Italy. 
 
Andrea and Cristina Orsini are the sixth generation making wines from their small farm on the outskirts of Montalfoglio, a small village in the central Marche. Pandolfi Orsini makes the quintessential example of Pergola Rosso. The grape Aleatico is thought to be a mutation from the white grape Muscat, yet there is still a lot unknown about where the grape variety originated. 
 
Andrea keeps vinification of the variety simple, with fermentation with natural yeasts in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. The wine is aged further in tanks until bottling. The result is a highly aromatic, floral red, with black cherry notes and spice. The wine is medium bodied, with striking freshness on the finish. It reminds us a bit of Frappatto mixed with Sangiovese—you know, Frangiovese! Drink this alongside seared salmon or simple red-sauce pasta dishes.